Replacing frame rails

dan46 · 12-12-2009, 11:21 AM

Finally got the Mustang in the garage and started removing all interior and front end. Have the parts to start getting rid of the rust. There is allot of that.

My question to the knowing herd here is what is the best place to get the car level? Tops of the old frame rails? I am replacing both front and rear rails.

Any suggestions will be appreciated. I have my opinions but want to hear from those that have done it......

05mustang45 · 12-12-2009, 11:22 AM

do it on level concreat.put the car on 4 jackstands.measure from floor to back and front of framerail.do the same side to side,replace one at a time.

cameron55 · 12-12-2009, 11:26 AM

I agree, but you really have to make sure you have a truly level spot to do it, and it's very tough, because most concrete is not level.

bobs68 · 12-12-2009, 11:30 AM

Concrete is going to be used only to hold the weight of the car. What I am goin to use for level is the car itslef. I intend to build some jackstands that have an all-thread rod and a platform to rest the car on. This will be the point of reference for all measurements. Concrete is not something I want to reference to when trying to egt the car within 1/16" square.

Basically I will elevate the car with the adjustable jack stands to get off the uneven concrete surface. A level and plumb bob will be used to get the car in square.

What point on the car do I focus on to get level? The trunk area has a floor on it that would be good to get side to side level. What about the bottom door runners to get front to back level? Is these area going to get me where I need to replace the frame rails?

65coupe · 12-12-2009, 11:35 AM

as long as the rocker panels are straight you can use them side to side and front to back.

tarafied1 · 02-25-2010, 09:12 PM

I leveled my car across the shock towers and along the rocker panels. I used some camper jack stands but the all-thread idea is the same concept. It allows fine tuning of the height. I also only did one side at a time so that I had the original on the other side for referance and I kinda made a "jig" of welded up rods with washers for all the bolt holes where the suspension mounted. That way I could clamp the new stuff in place, set the jig in place, run the bolts in the holes and tweak the alignment of parts (again haveing only one side apart at a time) then tack it in place.
It seamed to work pretty well. I replaced everything from the firewall forward and from the rear frame over the axle hump back. Also the full floors, quarters, trunk and tail panel.