Radiator: Car Needs to Run Cooler

kingcobra · 12-06-2009, 04:17 PM

It's around 100 degrees almost everyday where I live.

My car’s temperature gauge reads half way between cold and hot when I'm cruising (which seems fine), but when faced with stop-and-go driving, the temperature gauge gets pretty close to hot.

I flushed the radiator and put in some new antifreeze/coolant. But the problem is still there.

What else could I do to get the car to run cooler in traffic?

05mustang45 · 12-06-2009, 08:18 PM

What kind of fan do you have? Do you have a fan shroud? Do you have a old stock Radiator?

smittycm · 12-28-2009, 03:54 AM

Tell us what your current setup is. There are lots of options. You could go with a stock radiator with more rows, aluminum radiator, 6-blade fan, fan shroud, electric fan, etc. It could also be an engine adjustment like your timing that could be causing your car to run hot. Good luck!

r/s

Chris
____________
'66 Coupe 289 C4

kingcobra · 12-28-2009, 11:46 AM

Yes I believe its still the stock 2 row radiator with no shroud. I may just go with the aluminum radiator. Is there a better flowing radiator that still looks stock? I dont think there is a problem with my thermostat since it does seem to stop at half way.

66@50 · 01-22-2010, 05:19 AM

Lots of opinions on aluminum v copper rads. Make sure you are running a shroud and the fan is the right distance from the rad.(blades out of shroud about an inch or so). For my money 3 or 4 core copper is the best cooling you can get. Does not have the same bling as aluminum but much better at doning the job it's supposed to do. Also check all th obvious stuff (thermostat, hoses, fluid level). Stock gauges are not great at true temp readings. Do you have an aftermarket temp guage?

The_Godfather · 01-22-2010, 06:58 AM

I'm guessing you are driving a classic.

I have a 70 that has had over heating problems as well. You will have to have a shrowed but if you want to keep it looking stock try to find a 4 core from another car close to the year of yours. My father has a 67 Cougar and it was over heating as well and he did the swap and every thing is fine.

The also sell a few items that are suppost to help with that as well, I know 1 is called wetter then wet. I think they sell it at Auto Zones. I have also been told that straigh Antifreeze will keep it a little cooler.

tarafied1 · 02-25-2010, 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The_Godfather

The also sell a few items that are suppost to help with that as well, I know 1 is called wetter then wet. I think they sell it at Auto Zones. I have also been told that straigh Antifreeze will keep it a little cooler.

actually water is a better coolant than antifreeze. The "wetter than wet" or water wetter is an additive that allows you to run a lower concentration of antifreeze. It has corrosion/rust inhibitors and lubrication properties so you could use pure water. I have a 429 stuffed in my 67 and it ran hot in traffic with 50/50 mix. I went to 25% antifreeze and 75% water (with water wetter)and that helped. Also, the copper/brass radiators are recomend to use a 13 pound cap. Higher pressure will lower the boiling point but it's risky on the stock radiator. An aluminum radiator will hold more pressure. The aluminum will "tranfer" heat better but if your fine at cruising speed the radiator is working. It sounds like an air flow issue. Also since I don't know the details, a underdrive pully set-up can hurt you at idle, too low of coolant flow. You may have stock pulleys so maybe not an issue for you. The factory gauges don't have numbers so I might recomend a cheap (relatively speaking) way to check actual temp. Mr Gasket makes a radiator cap with a gauge built in and cost about $25 at most parts places (I got mine at O'Reilys). You can't read it from inside the car but in the case of running hot you could stop and pop the hood to see what the actual temp is. If it is below boiling temp you may be okay even if it is on the hot side. Just some thoughts.