Suspension improvements, help me make a decision so I can carve the corners faster.

stg2stang · 01-14-2010, 07:30 PM

HI there

Following on from a previous thread I have done much research and think I am nearly at a decision.

My car is a 2005 Saleen with JDM Stage 2 kit and Lightweight Driveshaft which I am aware could cause clearance issues.

At the moment the steering response on my car is perfect, but I want to improve my cornering speed and the amount of confidence the car inspires in me when I am cornering. Also it would be nice if I could get on the power sooner out of corners too.
I do want to keep the Saleen suspension as some people tell me its good and can be made great but others say its not that good. Still it its gonna cost a fortune to change the suspension out so would preferre to keep it and just try to improve it.

With that in mind I have come up with the following parts from a few manufacturers:-

STEEDA Parts
1. Steeda rear sway bar - $159.95
2. Steeda street & race adjustable lower control arms - $239.95
3. Steeda lower trailing arms re-location brackets - $129.95
4. Steeda adjustable upper 3-link kit - $179.95
5. Steeda adjustable street panhard bar - $159.95
6. Steeda HD Race Panhard Brace - $79.95
TOTAL = $949.70

CHE Parts
1. CHE severe duty adjustable lower control arms - $219.95
2. CHE double adjustable upper control arm with poly bushes - $143.95
3. CHE Anti-Squat brackets - $98.79
4. CHE Panhard brace - $95.83
5. CHE severe duty double adjustable panhard bar - $149.99
TOTAL = $708.51

BMR Parts
1. Adjustable Lower "Street" Control Arms with poly bushing/rod-end combination - $259.95
2. Adjustable Upper Control Arm w/poly bushing - $176.95
3. Tubular Adjustable Panhard Rod - $134.95
4. Rear 7/8" Swaybar - 2005+ Mustang - $199.95
5. Bolt-in Control Arm Relocation Brackets - $134.95
TOTAL = $906.75

So from the above 3 which is the best overall package forgetting the price point for improving cornering speed, handling and putting the power down sooner out of the corners?
Also I don't want clunking, rattling and squeaks coming from my vehicle too.

Would I better taking a selection and mixing from different manufacturers? Is the rear sway a requirement?

Any help/advice is welcome. My car is used on the street and is a daily driver, but I may do the odd road course and track day.

tom06 · 01-14-2010, 07:51 PM

i would choose BMR or CHE. Both top end componenets. Nothing against Steeda but they tend to be very expensive. both BMR and CHE have superb quality. i would go with all the CHE stuff as it will save you quite a bit of $$ and still give you the same great qualities as the BMR or Steeda

stg2stang · 01-14-2010, 08:08 PM

Been told to go with Steeda re-location brackets as the BMR/CHE don't provide enough adjustment to get handling to its best wheras the Steeda brackets do, would you agree?

I want my car to really carve up the corners.

05s197 · 01-14-2010, 08:08 PM

IMO, the BMR/CHE brackets are going to give you enough adjustment for your average Joe who is seting up his suspension.

I don't like the steeda brackets because they are so thin/weak looking (The BMR/CHE brackets are twice as thick as the Steeda ones). Also the 3 holes on the steeda brakets are MUCH closer togather then the two that are on the BMR brackets. So all in all you probally have the same "range" of adjustment, you just loose that minor in between choice. Which I honestly don't see making that much of a difference.

ponyman · 01-14-2010, 08:21 PM

You need to include something to adjust your roll center. There are two options: Steeda Ball Joints or the Steeda Control Arm Relocation Kit.

You might also want to consider different shocks.

stg2stang · 01-14-2010, 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ponyman

You need to include something to adjust your roll center. There are two options: Steeda Ball Joints or the Steeda Control Arm Relocation Kit.

You might also want to consider different shocks.

Do those go on the front of the car? Does the Saleen need those just never been recommended them before.

This suspension stuff confuses me. Is the Saleen car as standard a poor setup?

I just want to add some further bolt-ons that will further enhance the handling.

scott08 · 01-14-2010, 08:37 PM

If your really that serious about the cornering capability of you car then get with the new Griggs front and rear system.

RoyMT · 01-14-2010, 08:48 PM

This is a difficult thing to answer without knowing your driving experience, what you define as good handling and where you will do the majority of your driving.

If you are new to suspension tweaking I would start with only a couple changes, see how you like it and go from there.
Don't do it all at once.

If you do decide to take the car to the track, probably the best change you could make would be a set of 18" wheels with stickier tires.

If I had your car I would start with adjustable shocks and a panhard rod with spherical rod ends. This would allow you to adjust things enough to feel the difference in how the car handled by siffining or softening the front and rear a bit.

If you have trouble putting the power down out of the corners you might try softening up the rear a bit or stiffining the front. The super low profile 20" tires probably don't help corner exit.

When it comes to springs, personally I like specific rate better then progressive springs for track use.
Specifics are basically the same rate through the travel of the spring and for me they feel better when entering a turn. They don't ride nearly as nice on the road though.

Eventually if you went with adjustable shocks and a coilover setup you would be able to choose about any spring rate you wanted.

This is just my opinion.
I would start with small managable changes, make adjustments and get used to the car before making more changes.

billet60 · 01-14-2010, 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 05s197

IMO, the BMR/CHE brackets are going to give you enough adjustment for your average Joe who is seting up his suspension.

I don't like the steeda brackets because they are so thin/weak looking (The BMR/CHE brackets are twice as thick as the Steeda ones). Also the 3 holes on the steeda brakets are MUCH closer togather then the two that are on the BMR brackets. So all in all you probally have the same "range" of adjustment, you just loose that minor in between choice. Which I honestly don't see making that much of a difference.

That's B.S. The Steeda LCA relocation brackets are just as thick and likely stronger (better materials), as the other LCA relocation brackets we're talking about here. I've installed the CHE's and BMR's on some local club guy's cars (and I have BMR's in my own car), and the Steeda LCA's are sitting in my garage waiting for me to find the time to cut off the BMR's LCA relocation brackets, clean up the old mounts and weld-in the new Steeda LCA brackets.

As to the spacing of the holes, the whole point of having more holes closer together is to have them in about the same range or greater (as is the case with Steeda's brackets), to offer better locations for optimizing the rear geometry than the VERY limited CHE and to a lesser degree the BMR brackets.

You must be a drag racer, you obviously don't drive your car on a road course or canyon roads at the speeds a well tuned suspension on an S197 is capable of. If you did you would know that having more tuning options is needed for this chassis when lowered especially with all of the different springs available on the market.

I don't sell anything for these cars and have nothing to gain from selling parts as you do. Maybe you should get a set and install them for folks who drive these parts as they are ment to be driven.

CHE and BMR make good solid parts for drag racing. Steeda is out road racing every weekend, Steeda's focus is not on drag racing though obviously much of what they offer crosses over very well. The same cannot be said for CHE and BMR parts in general.

shelbygt · 01-17-2010, 11:43 AM

Again, in proirity order for handling and height adjustment (Street)

Springs, shocks, struts
Front swaybar
Adj. Panhard bar/panhard bar brace
Rear swaybar/Quality HD links
G-trac bar(lower strut tie,( STB not do able because of SC)
Front swaybar braces
Lower control Arms ( all prone to cracking from torquel cornering motion.)
Front control arm re-location kit (welded)
Ball joint change out( compatable with bumpsteer kit)
shock tower brace (welded)
Dual triangulated rear chasis braces(welded)

Rear lower control arm re-location brackets, adjustable upper control arms have nominal street improvement and if not istalled at proper pinion/ setting angles, result in unwanted noise often.

Theory is one thing, actually getting any REAL street improvement by repeating your handling tests and speeds on the same freeway on/off ramps, canyon drives, and illegal 110 LA freeway late night races is another.

After having actually added all the items on my list, the first 6 items on my list are the only items I could honestly say made a perceivable difference that mattered in actally feeling and testing speed and cornering to the max to the squeel and still maintain control. With excellent tires warmed and ready goes with out saying.

In the end, I was drawn in as well by discussions led by Track enthusiasts and vendors. In the end, to me, for street, I could go back to the first 6 -7 items I listed, and be perfectly happy for street forever.